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[Paul Morris]

The TT test can be tricky to set up with the FOBs. (but it will work great!)  Just make sure that the rest is coming up to the full up position at the last part of the draw to ensure a quick drop and the cord should be tied about level with the bottom of the handle/grip (when not drawn back). The goal is to have the least amount of tension on the cord at full draw but having the rest 100% all the way up. Also, I like to rotate the rest bar (the bar that mounts the rest to the riser) slightly down so the rest workings are as level with the riser shelf as possible and the forks should lay as flat as possible.  This will also maximize clearance. If you use the rubber arrow guide/holder with the rest, please double check clearance and you may need to trim down.  Those arrow guides/holder give us the most troubles.

The TT rest can have bounce up issues and may be hard to detect.  If you have plenty of clearance but your arrows are hitting low (especially broadheads), you may have the dreaded TT bounce back.  The cure is to make sure the rest is set up as described above and then slow up or speed up the timing so the bounce does not happen right when the FOB is going over the rest,   

Here are two videos.  First one is a hunter with bounce at the wrong time.  The second is an TT xtreme with bounce that does not make contact with the FOB.

Bad Bounce
<a href="http://www.youtube.com/v/94X5uNDzt-0" target="_blank">http://www.youtube.com/v/94X5uNDzt-0</a>

Good Bounce
<a href="http://www.youtube.com/v/xQAHvpBDwCE" target="_blank">http://www.youtube.com/v/xQAHvpBDwCE</a>

[MMEZ]

Here are some pitcures of my set-up. I have a 2004 Bowtech Liberty with a TT original rest. Getting serious contact and cannot figure out where.

[MMEZ]

More pictures of clearance:

[MMEZ]

Few more

[Greenarrow]

MMEZ,
I would raise your rest so that the launcher is parallel with the arrow shelf, from your pictures the the launcher is not quite at parallel with the arrow shelf.

[MMEZ]

I had it raised and got even more contact with the FOB than I do now. I lowered it to see if that was the problem and just never put it back where it was. I can try to raise it again, though and see if there was something I missed.
Thanks!

[Paul Morris]

Yikes!

For some reason I can not view the photos you posted??  They did come up before.

I would suggest to mark the leading edge of the FOB with some grease pencil or lip stick that will show up on the cable/rest.  Having a red cable, you may need another color to find out where the contact is.

We will get this figured out!  First thing is to find out where the hit is.

[Jeff_WA]

I have a TT Shakey Hunter SL rest. It worked with FOB's last time I tried. I read above about moving the mounting bar that attaches to the riser up so it's level with the riser and having the pull cord not being tight but still up all the way at full draw.. What exactly are you talking about with the "level with riser"   Only way I know to mount it is make the mounting part level, then I either moved the "Y" up or down by loosening the little allen bolt and rotating the bar that has the actual "Y" (rest) attached to it. I saw no contact with the FOB on my arrow rest and had plenty of clearance with it.

I couldn't get broadheads to hit my target last time I tried FOB's. Field tips were spot on out to 60 yds without adjusting anything switching from my Blazer vaned arrows to a FOB'ed arrow. I want to try FOB's again. They were hitting low about 6" and right about 4-6" every shot with broadheads (Wasp Boss 100 gr) If I took the same broadhead and put it on a Blazer fletched arrow they hit spot on.

Why? 

[Simon]

Welcome to the Nation Jeff. What brand bow are you using?. Check back later for other replies. Some of theFob tuning guys don't show up till later in the afternoon. I know you already spoke to Paul. But we will see what others here have to say.

[MetalMan0880]

are you putting the blades of the broadhead and the vanes of the fob inline?

[BowHunter4e]

Jeff, you have some sort of contact issue(s)...the only reason that the FOBs are acting the way that they are because they have no forgiveness...what i mean by that is when fletchings or vanes hit part of your bow or rest, they bend and move out of the way...the FOBs rigid plastic allows for no bend...you could be a number of different things, nock high, FOBs making contact with an arrow holder (if you use one), bounce back, drop away might be too slow, etc. etc....step one is figuring out if you have total clearance, part of that is making the necessary adjustments to your rest and nock...level with the riser is really easy to do...you need a line level and a torpedo level (look at bowtuningtips' videos on rest installment, he has a bunch there), make sure your string is level with the line level and then put the torpedo level on the flat part of your rest. Step two is fugiring out where you are getting the contact...thats a little more difficult.  if you post pictures of your setup we can get a better idea and help you from there.

[BowTuningTips]

<a href="http://www.youtube.com/v/Xr5NPsIRc78" target="_blank">http://www.youtube.com/v/Xr5NPsIRc78</a>

[BowTuningTips]

Watch the video and see if it helps. You are dropping out sounds like to me. If your rest comes up top full upright at the exact time you reach full draw you need to increase your arrow travel by moving your cable connection down by 1/4 inch increments till you get about 2" of arrow travel while the rest is at full upright. As for the hitting right move the rest to the left and that will fix that. The reason fletches are hitting is because you have sighted in for them to hit fobs make you tune your bow perfect.

[Jeff_WA]

Thanks guys!!    I will report back soon...